TIKI
21 ENGINE MOUNTINGby Roy
Proctor after two years sailing his Tiki 21
I have spent
some time trying to get satisfactory performance and raising ability
from the engine mount.
Firstly, I
think the vertical transom mount shown on the plans is very poor and
the plans should be modified. It should have been sloped to allow
the engine to be at the correct angle in the water at least. I use a
Mercury sail power 4 long shaft (20"). The first problem was
that the engine was not deep enough in the water so at full power in
anything but the calmest of water, the prop kept cavitating and the
engine revs rise alarmingly. The first mod was to lower the mount as
shown in the photo below. This improved, but did not solve the
cavitation problem. Also the engine had to be retained in the
"up" position with a bungee cord as the uplock would not
engage.

The next mod
was to cut out the centre of the transom mount and to reinstall it
with the bottom raked forward. It was also lowered even more. The
piece cut out was reaffixed by triangles of half inch ply to the
original parts of the mount. (see sketch). The angle at which the
cut-out is reaffixed is critical if the engine's own uplock is to be
used. I assembled the centre deck and the aft beam on supports in
the workshop to do this. I found that if the engine is rotated 90
degrees on its steering bearings as is raised to the uplock, it will
go up a bit further. ( This also avoids kinking the fuel feed pipe
if using an external tank.) The slope of the transom needs to be
determined in conjunction with the engine so that the uplock will
just engage as the engine leg touches the underside of the aft beam.
As the lock engages, the engine will drop back a bit. After the
transom mount is complete, the angle of the engine in the running
position is fixed by suitable positioning of the adjustment provided
on the engine. In my case, I found that I had made the tilted part
of the transom too narrow to use the adjustable handle provided. So
I made a new one from a piece of stainless steel rod retained by
split pins.
The results
are very much better and are just acceptable. In calm water the
engine will give me 7 knots. However in rough water speed is still limited
by cavitation problems. In a two hour punch back into wind in rough
water only 2 or 3 knots could be managed. One hand had to be on the
throttle all the time to control rpm. A very wearing business. In
rough water when sailing, the prop is inclined to catch the tops of
waves and so kicks up spray. The Mercury gives very good push both
forward and in reverse. Having F-N-R gears is invaluable when
manoeuvring. I am glad I did not rely on a 180 degrees rotation of
the engine to provide reverse.

The Bristol
Channel, where I sail, can get rough very quickly, there are strong
tides and not many "bolt holes". Not to mention mooring
and getting back home in time! Thus I would not consider operating
without an effective and reliable engine.
What are my
conclusions? Tiki drawings should show a more practical engine mount
in the first place! I would go for a twin cylinder engine with anti
vibration mounts if I could. The noise and vibration from the single
cylinder is very wearing if being used for any length of time. On
the other hand, an engine with a 25" leg would probably suffer
less from cavitation problems and hence be a better bet. The only
one I know that might be suitable is the Tohatsu. I originally
intended to use a short shaft (15" leg) engine and modify the
platform to suit. I am glad I did not. It would have been pretty
useless.