steering issues
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Steering issues.

Wheel steering
Bob Kupps installed his wheel steering with the steering drum on the right, and mentions it's 110mm id and gives 6 turns lock to lock.

The generally recognised number of turns from lock to lock is three (and for some autopilots this needs to be adhered to +/- 1/2 turn). 

Also generally accepted is to have rudder stops at 33 deg. Steering effect is lessened considerably over this angle, the rudders tend to act as brakes, and the forces involved when going astern increase dramatically.

 

Lets look at Bobs gear as an example. 
Three turns round his drum is 110 * 22/7 * 3 = 1035mm.
The point along the tiller at which we can measure 1035mm of travel lock to lock (being 33deg off centre line) is around 925mm from the turning point (line through the pintles).

If I was setting the steering up for this boat I'd tie the steering rope around the tiller at this point and then assess what affect this would have on ramps/sheets/dinghies/engines etc. If it worked, then I'd found where the attachment point should be. SB

Starting from scratch you might chose the fixing point first and then determine the size of drum... Since tiller pilots specify 18inches (450mm)from the pivot this has always seemed to me a sensible point to attach the steering (although I'd accept it's odd logic ;-)). 

All that then needs doing is to cut off the tillers say 150mm beyond this to fashion for an emergency tiller to be connected, perhaps aluminium tube with nice shaped wooden plug sized for a comfortable hand grip?

Don't forget to introduce Ackerman angle into the equation when fitting the tiller bar to your new, short tillers. When Steve T & I looked at this some years ago we came up with about 15deg for the beamy Tiki's, perhaps down to 10deg on the classics... 
Not to be ignored, on Bobs set-up, if we installed the tiller-bar at the steering line attachment point we just calculated, we're talking 225mm (9 inch) offset! Most people think this looks excessive so end up compromising, and that will be better than not installing any.

Tiller steering click on image for larger version
Jeff Fullmer asks about altering his tiller set-up as it interferes with his engine.

I've a photo of his Tanenui so we can see the set-up, the Ackerman angle is built into the curve of the tillers, and the tillers are angled so, when straight, they're almost parallel with the decks. When the helm goes over, because of the angle of the pintles, the tillers drop down, and of course the tiller bar.

The tillers slide into a metal fixture bolted to the rudder on this particular boat so new ones need to be made, allowing the tiller to "peak up a bit". Half way between parallel with the deck & 90deg to the forward edge of the rudder looks OK with short tillers with wheel steering, with the long tillers you just need to raise them enough to clear, anymore will place them awkwardly high for the helmsman.  The tiller-bar doesn't need to be so near the end of the tiller which may help to clear the engine - but a stand-off bracket will need to be fitted to retain the same Ackerman angle...

New tillers could be made straight, if required, but a long stand-off bracket would then have to be fitted, which the tiller-bar connects to (see also the wheel steering text). SB

This page was last updated on 23-Apr-2001.

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