Ron Hall has sent in this article on the planning for his modified Tiki 38 cockpit/pod.

Years of being wet and cold in small boats (30 years, 30 feet or less, no dodger/no bimini) has left me with different ideas about the level of comfort I can endure. So... since I can't draw things out very well on paper (angles meeting angles meeting curves) I built a mockup out of doorskin (1/4 inch cheap ply) and framing lumber to work out the appearance, sizes (seats height, dodger height, etc.) and arrangements (console, helm seat, awning support, etc. The thicknesses and the exact construction (this is all put together with drywall screws) will change in the final, as will some of the overall dimensions, but this is our current idea, and I thought I would put it out on the web to generate interest and some constructive criticism.

JPEG 851

JPEG 843 shows the rear of the mockup, with the PVC pipe representing SS. The upper pipe will be bent to follow the profile of the dodger, and supports the awning. The lower pipe with the two intermediate supports forms a back for sitting on the back ledge of the cockpit. The seat support (lower pipe) will be bent back a couple of inches, and the shelf extended aft beyond the cockpit rear piece to provide more sitting area. We are considering adding winch pads and a winch either outboard as far aft as possible (but still allowing the handle to clear the stern rail) for the jib sheets, but really hate the idea. Would be interested to know if the jib could be handled by tackles (2 or 3 to one) one the sheet rather than winches.

JPEG 840 shows the console and interior seats. The seats are 20 inches wide (per JWD plan), but at a height of 15 inches (port) and 13 inches (starboard) at the front, sloping one inch to the back. The consensus among people of various sizes was that the taller seat was more comfortable, but would probably be too tall if cushions were added, so the actual cockpit will have the seats at 14 inches. The seat fronts will be angled back some and the seat itself finished with a bullnose to protect the ends of the ply. The console has here only a front and back. The dual lever motor controller sits on the shelf at right, with the compass and GPS niche on top. The 24 inch wheel (the cardboard one in the mockup is only about 21 inches) is offset to port, so the boat can be driven either from the central helm seat or from the port seat. Storage areas under the seats will be accessed by cutouts. We're considering adding a small table between the front of the cosole and the mast casing with a shallow storage area for flashlights, horns, etc. underneath, but don't want to add a lot of furniture until we see how it works on the water.

JPEG841

JPEG 841 shows the central helm seat and rear seat back. The rear seat back will be slats that fold up to extend the seat formed be the top ledge at the very rear. The helm seat will also be slats, and fold up against the seat back to allow more room for standing and driving the boat. The side windows under the roof can be closed off by flexible plastic. Mainsheet and traveler controls enter the cockpit on each side with cleats on the rear seat back.

Have include a couple of shots of the build, which of course has taken much longer than planned and impacted virtually the entire house. The shed (interior shown in JPEG 021) and the cockpit mockup occupy most of what used to be the deck. We have just finished glassing the three main crossbeams and are beginning to prime them and other pieces, like the rudder. The shed consists of 4- inch PVC pipe covered by tarps, and is pretty well protected from the wind by the deep creek valley and surrounding bamboo, but has to be de-snowed from the inside during the winter.

JPEG 857 show the upstairs interior. I had started to remodel (moving and replacing the central stair, ripping out the kitchen, etc.) so we have moved into the apartment downstairs and left most of the upstairs to the boat. The picture shows the second mast ready for finishing, sitting on the mast table. The uprights support a shelf for stock (at the very top), then a shelf for the completed mast planks before assembly of the mast, and then the mast in carpeted holders. The mast table (two nine inch wide pieces of 1/2 inch ply sandwiching the straightest 2X2's I could find screwed together into a 34 foot long table) sits on the middle shelf when the mast is being planed and sanded. The plastic you see everywhere forms a tube down the center of the house to try to contain some of the dust. The clamp rail keeps the clamps under control (although most of them have gone off to other duties here). The mast sanders (24 inch belt sander discs with PVC and rope handles on them) are also hanging from the clamp rail. The picture is taken looking in the front door, with the mast going all the way to the end wall of the house; the masts go directly out the door, across the neighbor's fence and into the street, where we can turn them enough to get them into the back yard for storage.